Whitefish, Montana

Best For: Families and groups with disparate skiing abilities 

Executive summary by darmansjah

Whitefish, a former logging and railroad town of more than 6,000 near the entrance to Glacier National Park, has been quietly delivering glitz-free Montana skiing for over half a century. Despite a recent influx of Mercedes and fur coats, the town has managed to maintain its appealingly rough-hewn character. The newly rechristened Whitefish Mountain Resort, the resort formerly known as Big Mountain, looms invitingly above the bars and restaurants of the Western-style downtown, which is anchored by Whitefish’s historic train station. About 15 percent of Whitefish’s winter visitors arrive via daily train service, which, combined with the free skier shuttle that connects town to mountain, makes car-free trips here easy.

Whitefish the ski area lives up to its family-friendly billing with good first-timer terrain and an abundance of long, wide-open, roller coaster groomers where skiers and snowboarders of all abilities can get their superhero on. A high-speed quad speeds to the mountain’s summit, which is often engulfed in clouds and studded with thickly rimmed, white trees known as “snow ghosts.” The ghosts make for atmospheric glade skiing. Experts will find ample pockets of steep and deep terrain, including an abundance of backwoods tree skiing on the mountain’s less visited north side. Crowds are rarely a problem anywhere on the mountain. On clear days, views from the Summit House cafeteria into Glacier are stunning.

Ask a Local

Ski patroller and fly-fishing guide Ryan Friel is a 17-year resident of Whitefish and one of the founding editors of the Whitefish Review literary journal. Here are his recommendations.

Best Digs

Budget: Hibernation House, on the mountain, is dirt cheap, with breakfast included.

Swank: The Lodge at Whitefish Lake has ice-skating on the lake and a hot tub near shore with views of the mountain.

Best Eats

Cheap: At the Buffalo Cafe, you can split any of the buffalo pies, a breakfast delight of hashbrowns, ham, cheese, and eggs (with no buffalo meat), and still feel like you had a meal.

Gourmet: Tupelo Grille has a great dinner menu: chicken and dumplings, a phenomenal wine selection, and a bread pudding that’s not to be overlooked.

Best After-Ski Party Spot

Don’t miss the local flair at the on-mountain Bierstube: good bar food, cheap drinks, and the vibe that says ápres.

Best Rest-Day Activity

Go shopping in Whitefish’s pedestrian-friendly, vibrant downtown and take tours of the Great Northern Brewery.

Whitefish’s Classic Run

The world-class groomers always make Inspiration and Big Ravine cruising delights. Advanced skiers should head for the East Rim and the Picture Chutes